And to be fair, there ismerit to hisarguments, particularlyin a worldin which marketersare increasinglythrowingtheterm "cloud" around likeit's goingout of style.
There are certainly exceptions, some notable, but it is more than fair to say in a rather sweeping generalization that California chardonnays are devoted to a rich, fat, buttery style, with a heavy-handed use of oak barrel aging, resulting in a wine best enjoyed on its own or at cocktail parties, usually deep golden in color.